Mad About Shanghai

Pumpkin Soup at Bi Feng Tang

Bi Feng Tang [避风塘 (literally means the sheltered place)], is a chain of sixteen Cantonese restaurants in Shanghai.

Reasonably priced, conveniently located, prompt service and some delicious selections made this chain a very popular eatery in Shanghai.

Though the chain serves primarily dim sum, they do have some "house specials" that are simply delightful.

One of them is the pumpkin soup. Flavourful, rich and aromatic, the pumpkin soup tasted just like granny's cooking. Bacon, mushroom, tomatoes and potatoes are a few of the ingredients used. Oh, it is served in a pumpkin as well.

I didnt know about this item on the menu till one day Jennifer insisted to go to Bi Feng Tang for dinner just to try the pumpkin soup.I like it and went back again in the same week when the craving struck.

Of the sixteen outlets in Shanghai, my favourite outlet is arguably the one opposite Kerry Center. Cubicles just outside the restaurant allow you to dine al fresco, without sacrificing privacy. If it gets too chilly or warm, there are air conditioners and heaters in those cubicles too. The ambience is much better than inside the restaurant which is more casual and noisy.

The "cubicles" are next to the perched lanterns:

Crab Cravings

Coming from a country which the national dish is the chilli crab, I am more used to crabs with claws this size (see below). We like our crabs BIG with lots of spice, chilli and pepper.

We like it so much we even add vermicelli with the dish to enhance the overall gluttony experience. Vermicelli absorbs flavours very well. When steamed together with crabs, the flavour from the ingredients and crustacean are infused into the texture of the noodle strand. The outcome is an absolute delight to the taste buds. Just the very thought of this makes me hungry!

In Shanghai, things are a very different. The locals prefer the much smaller hairy crabs.  They usually like it steamed and plain, devoid of any rich spices, except maybe for a bit of extra sauce or vinegar on the sides.

Contrary to their cousins overseas, the hairy crabs are more well known as a delicacy for their roe rather than for their meat. Being small in size, naturally, they dont provide as much meat as compared to say, the Sri Lankan or Alaskan crabs. However, once you have tasted a small teaspoonful of the roe, you would know why the Shanghaiese are crazy over it and like it plainly steamed. Rich and creamy, every little mouthful is an indulgence.

Normally, hairy crabs are the last dish of a dinner. This is because they are so delicious that other dishes would pale in comparison if the crabs were served first.

The season for crabs usually starts in autumn (late September), when the roes are expected to be fattest and richest.

The chinese name for hairy crabs, "Da Zha xie," is a misnomer though for "Da" in the Chinese language means "big".  Initially, I was a bit puzzled on why the crabs are labelled as "big" when they aren't. I later found out that it meant "big floodgate" crabs. 

While looking for some recommendations to satisfy my crab cravings in Shanghai, I was recommended these few restaurants:

1221
1221 Yan An West Road
Shanghai , 200050
Phone (021) 6213 6585

Fu
1039, 1039 Yu Yuan Road, Shanghai
Phone (021) 5237-1878

Xin Jiulong Tang
920 Tonchuan Road (at the wholesale seafood market)
Phone (021) 6265-8977 or (021) 6254-2268

Xinguang Jiujia
512 Tianjin Lu, Shanghai
Phone (021) 6322-3978

Ye Shanghai, House 6
North Block Xintiandi, Lane 181, Taicang Road, Shanghai
Phone (021) 6311-2323

If the craving hits you too, do try them out ! I know I would be getting my fix soon.

Disclaimer : I havent got a chance to try out these restaurants yet but they are reputed to be good!

50 things in Shanghai you absolutely have to eat

Check it out here.

A Fear Factor Experience

After a long day of city exploration with Angel, we ended up at Fuzhou Road near dinner time.

I was famished. Angel suggested an excellent Shanghaiese restaurant nearby. She wasnt too sure of the actual address though. She rang her Dad who gave her the exact address. After about ten minutes or so we were able to locate that eatery.

We got the last table in the restaurant.  As she placed the order with the waitsperson in Shanghaiese, I have no idea what dishes are upcoming. She ordered the usual fare, I think.

When the dishes were served, I noticed an unusual looking dish on the table. Something which looks like its taken from the set of Alien 3 or Fear Factor. When I queried her on what that was. She replied "Duck Tongue" and quickly ate a few of it. She mentioned it was "excellent". I wondered if I had misheard her. Looking at the dish, I then realised that the dish was really ducks' tongues !

Plucking up my gastronomical courage, I picked one up with my chopsticks and took a bite.

Aiks! And it really felt like a tongue. It tasted very unusual. Sticky, yet slippery and wet. I tried another one and dabbed it heavily in the provided sauce hoping to mask the taste before deciding that was the last one I would try.

Conclusion : Not my favorite exotic fare.

Xiao Long Bao & Drunken Chicken

If you are into Shanghai food, I am sure the humble Xiao Long Bao and Drunken Chicken are amongst the top of your list.

Have you ever wonder how these 2 dishes, which is so representative of Shanghai, are prepared?

I stumbled across this nice looking blog call Kuidaore (which literally means "eat till you drop" in Japanese).

Check out the preparation process here:

1)    Xiao Long Bao   
2)    Drunken Chicken

(Pics courtesy of Kuidaore )


There are some yummy pics of Christmas cookies on the blog too. Check it out!

If you have any recipes on authentic Shanghaiese food to share with our readers, let me know. I would get them posted.  ; )

Drunken Prawns Experience in Shanghai

My first experience with the drunken prawns dish was some 15 year years ago in a seafood restaurant in Singapore . I still remember, quite vividly, the culinary demonstration that took place then.

Just before the dish was served, the waitperson brought to the table a pot of live prawns in a glass pot. The prawns were then doused in chinese wine and literally immersed in the alcoholic mix with other ingredients . Like us, prawns do get drunk too, and you can see the live prawns flipping around in their drunken stupor in the glass pot. Hence, the name of the dish, drunken prawns.

The prawns were then transferred to a claypot and cooked alive.

I thought it was kinda cruel back then. Then again, my views were of course changed, after the terrific meal.

I had another encounter with this dish recently, Shanghai style. Michelle brought me to a terrific and authentic Shanghaiese restaurant in HengShan Lu (cant remember the name and address but would try to get it).

After walking through some really dodgy alleys, I was surprised to have a nicely set up restaurant hidden in a refurbished old Shanghai house. The highlight of the restaurant is in their 私房菜 or "secret recipes".  Naturally, I was excited when she ordered the  drunken prawns too.

When the dish was served, I was expecting the waitperson to come over and perform those exact same drills mentioned above. To my surprise, after Michelle invited me for the first bite, she promptly took one of the live prawns from the glass bowl with her chopsticks and started eating and in the process de-shelling the shrimp with her mouth.

And  she did all these with so much elegance. Hmm..got give it to those Shanghaiese ladies.

"Poor prawns...eaten alive"  I thought.

Not wanting to let down my host, I tried to replicate the same.

Yes! You guessed it. It was a much messier affair with shells and wine splattering into my sections of the table. The idea of decapitating the wriggling prawn with my mouth never quite crossed my mind.You can even feel the fresh prawn meat wriggling as it flows down your throat. Surprisingly, the livier version of the drunken prawns tasted quite good, even better than the cooked version...I think.. This is freshness, redefined..

Move over Anthony Bourdain, I am so ready for my first travel food show...

All about Xiao Long Bao (Pt 4)

Part 4 concludes our feature on Xiao Long Bao and its all about voting !

Please vote, on the right side bar, and tell us which is the best!

Choices:
1) NanXiang
2) Ding Tai Fung
3)Others

All about Xiao Long Bao (Pt 3)

Controversial chef, Anthony Bourdain, famous for his round the world, eat-all-and-anything antics, was once quizzed on what he reckons is the most fabulous dish he has ever tasted. Going by his culinary roots of French cooking, one would have guessed the foie gras would be on top of his list.

But no. Yes, you guessed it ! Its the Xiao Long Bao that he confesses his weakness for. Not those from any other restaurant though, but those from Ding Tai Fung (DTF) at Taipei.

Continuing on the trail of searching for the best Xiao Long Bao, I went to DTF Taipei while I was there on a short vacation (would write about this in a separate post). We got there at about 5.30 pm on a Sunday, at my host recommendation. We were seated in time just before the customary long queue  of 20 strong dumpling hungry customers started to form outside the restaurant. Well, am I glad I heed my host's advice.

Despite DTF's claim of consistency across their branches, I felt the ones there is tasted slightly different from the ones in Shanghai. Though I cant exactly pinpoint the precise difference, I suspect its in the soup. I cant say its better or worse than the one in Shanghai. Its just well....different. Nonetheless, it was a fantastic meal. And like the "Shanghai XLB phenomenon", Lori, my dinner host in Taipei, insisted the one at a corner shop near her home is better!

(Below) Lori tucking into the much anticipated meal.

(Below) Two other "must-order" items from the menu at DTF, shao mai and pork chop fried rice.

 
Two branches in Taipei:

First branch:
No. 194 (corner of Yunkang Street), Xinyi Road Sec. 2, Taipei
The one I went to:
No. 218 (Alley 216), Zhongxiao East Road Sec. 4, Taipei

Cantonese food in Shanghai

If you are into Cantonese food in Shanghai, you might want to try out this place call Heng Shan Restaurant.

I came across this restaurant pretty much by chance.  It was an Saturday night.  Feeling too early to be heading back,  I walked past Jiangsu Road in the hope of find a nice supper eatery.  I noticed a brightly lit establishment in the distance, surprisingly crowded, at that time of the night, on a deserted street. I walked nearer only to discover it is actually a restaurant.

Thats how I discovered Cafe Tima Harbor too! Its five mins walk away.

Cosy atmosphere, reasonable pricing and  professional services makes this a great joint for gathering and some good food with friends. I think the specialty there is the "barrel chicken". Try it!

   719 Yan An Xi Road (Near Rendezvous Hotel)
   Ideal for friends gathering or a date.
   Tel :021-62265517

Now..with so much good food in Shanghai, how do you keep slim and fit? Personally, I apply this Theory of Calorie Conservation. It works!

Shintori Shanghai

One of my favorite restaurants in Shanghai is Shintori at Julu Road. I like the innovative way they structure the atmosphere / settings of the restaurant. A tinge of fun and yet with a hint of seriousness. The intermixing of the lounge and restaurant feel in a minimalist setting makes this an ideal choice for entertaining guests from overseas or just a dinner date. Despite the open setting, you still get lots of privacy if you need.

The food is presented in a creative and contemporary fashion too.

As Shintori serves fusion food, its an easy choice when I cant decide between having western or oriental. Easy for settling any disagreement of food choices between couples :)

For first-timers going there, you might have difficulty in finding the restaurant cos there isn’t a sign at the entrance at all. For my first dining experience at Shintori, Rose took me there and even she herself couldn’t quite find the place! Initially, I was convinced that she was leading us in the wrong direction cos no restaurants are in sight.

We found the place after walking through a bamboo-rowed passageway. “等等” ...Rose scanned her hand against a hidden sensor, the door slided opened and we were greeted by two waitpersons. This should be the place…

Inside the restaurant, we were greeted by lots of raw concrete, glass and steel. First impression : Minimalist and yet tastefully architectured.

Impressive bells and whistles. Would the food be able to live up to the now heightened expectations ?

We ordered the oxtail soup, cod fish, grilled beef, broccolis and cold noodles.  Worthy mentions are the cod fish (was especially succulent) and the beef (was very well prepared, tender and fresh). Surprisingly, my favorite item is something not on the menu. The "rock and roll salad" (in a canister on your dining table) is so fresh that I finished everything.

For those interested in Japanese food, there is a sushi bar too.
Oh yes, remember to go to the washroom too..Not telling you why ;)

Bill came up to around RMB300 for two.

Shintori
803 Julu Road, by Fumin Road
(in the Former French Concession area)
Tel : +86 (21) 5404-5252
Mon - Fri: 5.30pm -11pm
Sat - Sun : 11.30am - 2pm & 5.00pm - 11.00pm