Mao once said "If you have been in Beijing and not visited the Great Wall, you aint considered a real bloke" (Literal and loosely translated).
Like the Great Wall in Beijing but in a Shanghai context, you cannot considered to have lived, been to, or call yourself a Shanghaiese if you have not tasted the humble Shanghai Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings). It originated many years ago, in a small town off Shanghai call
Nanxiang. Thus, the association with many shops by the name of
Nanxiang. No other food represent this city better.
Xiao Long Bao literally means small basket dumplings. These buns are traditionally (and still) steamed in bamboo baskets, hence the name.
As I have always have a penchant for small dianxi, primarily for its
variety, it is little wonder that Xiao Long Bao, ranks high in my list of
favoured Chinese food. There was even a stage in my life I got to eat
this every Friday at my favourite stall !
Lets call it XLB for short, just for this post.
Broadly speaking, XLB can be split into three different categories: Small, Medium, Large. I know I would be whipped for this by the locals, but thats how I categorize them!
Xiao Long (Tang) Bao (Small)
Its
the small version you can get. I usually eat a dozen at a go if I have
no other complementary food. Its the most common in Shanghai and is
deemed by many as the authentic version.
Xiao Long Bao (Medium)
It is bigger but has a thinner and a juicer soup base. Still available in Shanghai but more commonly found in Wuxi.
(below) Vava striking a pose with the Wuxi dumplings.
Xie Huang Tang Bao aka Dumpling with crab roe (Large)
This is like the king of XLB. Its massive! So massive that it fills an entire small basket steamer! You need a straw to sip out the delicious soup cos theres no way you can put the entire bun in your mouth or try and sip out the soup using just your chopsticks and spoon without making a mess. Like an icing on the cake, hairy crab meat and roe are included in the fillings. If you think the smaller version is flavourful, this more is even more wicked.
What makes a good Xiao Long Bao?
According to a chef:
1) Freshness of ingredients.
2) Must be prepared (wrapped, eat and steamed) and eaten on the spot. No takeaways or reheating.
3) Dumpling skin must be thin and easy on the bite. Strong enough to hold the soup and trapped in the mixture of flavours.
4) Filling must be substantial.
5) The pork used for the filling must be slightly fatty to bring out the flavour of the entire dumpling.
Have you ever wondered how they managed to get the soup into dumplings ?
The traditional way is to prepare the soup before hand, chill it
till it congeals and then mix it with meat filling. When the dumpling is
cooked or heated, the congealed soup liquifies and having extracted the
flavour from the marinated meat, gives a wonderful but rich soup base.
If you are trying an authentically made one, dip it with a bit of
vinegar and ginger sticks for a guaranteed explosion of flavours
on your first sip/bite.
So whats the best way to consume the dumpling?
When served, the seasoned XLB eaters would know when is the right time to pick this up with chopsticks and into the mouth, to prevent his/her lips and mouth to be scalded by the steaming hot broth. While there are no hard and fixed way to consume the dumplings, there are quite a few ways. Most Shanghaiese would recommend the first method.
Method 1
Hold the dumpling with your spoon, bite off a small section of the dumpling skin, sip out the soup, dip the rest of it into vinegar and eat the rest. I have seen Angel, a local girl doing this....so elegantly and exquisitely done.
Method 2
Put the entire dumpling in your mouth, give it a gentle bite. "Experience" the burst effect.
Method 3
Pry apart the skin, meat and soup and consume them separately.
This wraps up our part one on XLB. All this writing is making me hungry! Would be back soon for the second installment!
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